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If you've read "Rigging
Plastics Right", you're ready to begin reading about one of the
deadliest ways to catch giant smallmouth and largemouth. I don't know who
decided it should be called a "Texas" rig, but in fishing circles, it
is universally used to describe the technique of snugging a bullet shaped sinker
up next to the nose of a plastic worm, lizard, grub, crawdad, or any other
bizarre soft plastic you have in your tackle box. Texas rigging is very
easy to get the hang of, and if you try it a couple of times in bass country,
and I mean all kinds of bass country, I guarantee you will become a believer in
plastic baits.
The key to the texas rig is the use of a
bullet-shaped sinker. Some of these sinkers come with a small, coil-shaped
spring which is used to screw the weight into the nose of the plastic.
Regardless of what kind of bullet sinker is used, all
one does is thread their line through the nose of the sinker, tie on a hook, put
the plastic bait on the hook and finally do what needs to be done depending on
the kind of sinker that is selected. Having a selection of sinkers of
different weights is important for ensuring you are able to fish your plastics
the way a particular situation dictates (deep vs shallow, weedy vs not weedy).
SCREW-IN BULLET SINKERS - These are the pricey option for texas
rigging. A package of four will typically cost you $4.50. While
costly, they are probably the easiest way for the novice texas rigger to ensure
they get things right. The coil-shaped spring will screw into the nose of
the plastic bait and help keep the sinker snug against the plastic. REGULAR
LEAD BULLET SINKERS - These kinds of sinkers are less expensive than the
screw-in kind and are just as effective, but a little more difficult for the novice
to get the hang of. Most anglers prefer to have their bullet sinkers
snugged up against the plastic bait, and to do that with a regular bullet sinker
requires a toothpick. With the sinker properly placed on the line,
the toothpick is jammed inside the sinker so that it wedges the line against the
inside of the sinker, making the sinker unable to slide up and down the
line. The toothpick is then snapped off. I find this works better
with a mono than Fireline. Another option is to not use a toothpick at all
and simply let the sinker slide freely along the length of the line. This
option is not the best for precision casting however, because the sinker and
worm will often not stay together as one package when sailing through the
air. If you are trying to cast into pockets in a patch of weeds, keeping
the worm and sinker together will increase your odds of hitting the target.
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