Which is more important - The reel or the rod?

Just what the title says....anything and everything related to Rods, Reels, Terminal Tackle, Plastics, what others are using, what works, what doesn't work, and anything else you want to talk about regarding equipment.
Post Reply
User avatar
StarTzar
Silver Participant
Silver Participant
Posts: 972
Joined: Fri May 10, 2013 8:17 pm

Which is more important - The reel or the rod?

Post by StarTzar »

This question was posted on another fishing Forum and answered by Paul Shibata (Renegade Bass Member)
Paul gave what I thought were two of the best and most comprehensive answers to the question.
In my opinion, Paul's answers (in blue below) were so good that I wanted to share with everyone here.

Here is how he first answered the question.

Re: Which is more important - the reel or the rod?
Postby Paul Shibata » Wed Sep 11, 2013 12:28 am

As a tournament angler, my perspective may be different than those of the tackle collectors amongst the TT fraternity. I view my combos no differently than the way a professional mechanic views his tools. Though a gold plated hammer can be both appreciated and cherished, much more can be accomplished with a variety of tools assuming each one of them is of sufficient quality. From that I think that once a reel of sufficient quality is selected, a much greater difference will be realized if the remainder of the budget is allocated to the rod. Using the current model Curado as an example, I can guarantee that a reel of this caliber can never be blamed for a missed fish or a missed opportunity. However a less sensitive rod will not detect the strikes, a less powerful rod (slower recovery rate) will not move the fish from cover nor set the hook as well, a poorer taper will not cast as far nor as accurately. Subsequently in response to your question, you will have a better set of tools if you allocate your budget appropriately. Purchase reels that will more than accomplish the task, then focus on your rods which is where you will find the greatest difference to your ultimate success.


Here is the second answer with more in-depth information.

Re: Which is more important - the reel or the rod?
Postby Paul Shibata » Tue Sep 17, 2013 6:16 am

If I interpreted the op's question correctly, coupled with the fact that this is TT after-all, I think he was seeking advise on distributing his budget on better quality equipment. There is no doubt that my response along with others would have been different had the question been "...I have very limited funds what can I do to maximize my sensitivity?". The inclusion of line as a substitute for the performance criteria generally associated with the rod may be applicable if the budget prevented better rods and reels. However the incredible virtues associated with our modern superlines would translate to any combo thus begging the question that if braid can amplify the strike felt on a medium priced combo, would it not feel even better on a much more sensitive rod? Much like in my original post, I also treat the line that I spool up on any reel as specific tool. For me, there is no "best line" rather what line is the best for a specific situation. Based on this model, I use braided and uni-filament "superlines" as well as conventional monofilament in both copolymer and fluorocarbon formulas. In fact I tend to use pure fluorocarbon (P-Line) predominantly in bottom contact fishing except for a few specific instances despite the perceived sensitivity enhancement commonly associated with superlines.

Whenever I am fishing a "slack line" presentation (most bottom contact techniques including pitching or flipping jigs, worms, craws etc.) I only use mono (co-polymer or fluoro). Braid isn't as sensitive!

What!!! (you say) are you on crack!!!. Before you all jump down my throat remember that I prefaced my statement by saying that when I am fishing a "slack line" presentation.

In a slack line situation which is the accepted method to fish t-rigs and jigs, braid's suppleness in fact impedes the transmission of energy and will thus appear to be less sensitive. Mono or better yet fluorocarbon will appear to be more sensitive under the same conditions (slack line). The rigidity of either mono or fluorocarbon serves to better transmit the energy of a strike and as such the bite will be more easily detected. Fluorocarbon only further assists the transmission of energy given it sinking qualities and the absence of a "belly" in the line.

A simple experiment to further comprehend this apparent paradox would be to hold a short piece of braid between ones fingers and with your eyes closed have someone strike the dangling loose end of the line. The braid rather than transmit the energy of the strike will yield (bend) absorbing the energy and the angler is no more aware.

Try the same experiment with mono or fluorocarbon and you will realize that much like a glass rod these lines will, as a function of their stiffness, better transmit the energy and the associated strike.

I wish I could take ownership of this simple discovery but the credit lies with the jig master himself, Denny Brauer. He identified that immediately following the release of all of the super-lines he (along with everyone else) experimented to formulate their own opinions. He quickly identified that while fishing a jig or Texas rig he detected far fewer strikes when using braided line. Much like the string and the 2-can telephone, sound is only transmitted when the string is tight. The soft limp string dampens the sound waves as it would when fishing a slack line presentation.

I must reiterate that these are my thoughts alone, ones which I have formulated through my own personal experiences and I thoroughly respect all of the other opinions. Ultimately we must fish with whatever method, tackle and technique that we have the most confidence in. Subsequently and in response to the recommendation for funds to be allocated in greater proportion to the reel for moving bait techniques I think that the rod is equally important and deserves as much of the budget as it would for bottom contact presentations, albeit for some different reasons.

Though I can appreciate the tendency to associate better rod performance with "bottom contact" techniques as sensitivity is inherently key, moving baits can also equally benefit from better designed rods. Again this is TT and we all seem to be in pursuit of ultimate performance. Yes of course any rod and reel can "work" but that seems in gross contradiction with the fabric of our community. Once a reel of sufficient performance has been selected, rods that have been expressly designed for certain moving bait presentations can yield spectacular performance improvements.

Using a jerkshad as an example, this killer technique which incorporates a light weightless fluke presents several challenges which are best resolved with the appropriate rod. The ultra clear waters of the Great Lakes obligate extremely long casts to maximize the effectiveness of this technique and these distances are best achieved with longer rods designed with distance tapers and soft extra fast tips. And though I first experimented with many of the reels in my arsenal (Calais DC, Cores, CHD7's CH50MG etc) greater distances and presentation improvements were realized more so with the right rod. (Again a great reel will cast far on its own but will cast event farther on a great rod). Following a long cast this subtle technique benefits from extremely sensitive rods as the giant smallies are often undetectable as they slurp down the weightless fluke. Driving the hook point from great distances is best accomplished with rods employing graphite with the greatest recovery rate. Recovery rate, or the speed which the loaded/deflected blank returns to its original position is the true measure of power, not the often suggested "stiffness" of a rod. Unfortunately faster recovery rates fall within the exclusive territory of the best graphites hence again the argument for better rods. Lastly when the fish of a lifetime is thrashing boatside, the long, soft yet powerful blank will cushion the still aggressive fish until it has calmed sufficiently for the ever important picture. Sensitivity, distance, power, accuracy, and dampening are but some of the attributes that are designed into the best blanks. These same attributes will benefit almost every moving bait presentation let alone the fatigue associated with working heavier less effective rods.

Sorry for the ramble, I hope this proves useful.
BAA - 2016 Team 18 (10 shy of 28)
Renegade Bass - 2013 Team 67 - 2014 Team 28 - 2015 Team 51
BAA (Great organization) 2011 and 2012 Team 7
User avatar
Basspad
Participant
Participant
Posts: 39
Joined: Wed Jun 12, 2013 5:15 pm
Location: Gatineau

Re: Which is more important - The reel or the rod?

Post by Basspad »

Wow, that response was awesome. Great re-post. Opened my eyes little more on the situation, great info!
User avatar
zippyfx
Silver Participant
Silver Participant
Posts: 973
Joined: Wed May 15, 2013 8:22 am

Re: Which is more important - The reel or the rod?

Post by zippyfx »

These are very well thought out responses indeed!
User avatar
lape0019
Gold Participant
Gold Participant
Posts: 1817
Joined: Fri May 10, 2013 8:54 am

Re: Which is more important - The reel or the rod?

Post by lape0019 »

That was a good read and a great re post.

To me, I try and balance the price in between the two pieces. If I can, I will spend more money on the rod. I am in a minority though as I tend to buy my rods and reels at separate times. The rod usually comes first for whatever technique I am looking for and then buy the reel later on. At that point, balance and quality is all I care about.

Adam
Post Reply