Fish-Hawk.Net

There are so many smart, seasoned, experienced guys around here, I just have to find out your opinions on how you connect to your terminal tackle.

K -

Honestly speaking, I am somewhere between choices #1 and #2. That makes me a "lazy diehard".

Seriously, depending on the time I've got and the value / action of the lure I'll be presenting, it could be either one.

While on the subject of honesty, my knots STINK.

W.

While I've heard that many frown against it, it seems to work for me. Allows for quick changes too, and does not screw up your line by allowing the swivel to rotate as you're reeling.

I don't know what the best way to do it is. Some say that less is more when it comes to fishing....you got it make it look as natural as you can.....others say that if a fish is hungry, he'll eat anything.

Will be interesting to see the voting.

Thanks Karack.

I mostly use a snaplink and swivel as i fish with leaders 90% of the time. Perhaps in clear water with super spooky fish putting everything in your favour may be an idea and dropping the snaplink would be an option.

Tie direct 90% due to usually jiggin'.

Ball bearing swivels do the trick when chucking lures!

Have to start using leaders more though, lose the odd biggun' that I've decided to try get in the boat this year!

Unless I'm specifically targeting Pike or Musky - I tie direct. The toothy critters get a 9' - 30" leader depending. Most lures are designed to give maximum action on a direct knot. Adding a snap may prevent getting the optimum from a bait.

I've moved to using a barrel swivel with a flurocarbon leader tied directly to lure. Hopefully, the line is invisible and by tieing direct my lure has maximum ability to work properly. Plus the barrel swivel eliminates line twist if the lure picks up a stray weed.

McQ wrote:Unless I'm specifically targeting Pike or Musky - I tie direct. The toothy critters get a 9' - 30" leader depending. Most lures are designed to give maximum action on a direct knot. Adding a snap may prevent getting the optimum from a bait.

Hey McQ, that's good advice. I've noticed that when casting and is one of the reasons why I'm really considering tying direct. I could just get 1 fishing rod for each of my terminal tackle lures, then I could tie in the garage and just change rods. What ya think? I might need to drag a floating trailer behind the boat in order to cart them all around though. Oh my, now I'm getting silly. I think I'll go get some more coffee.

I have also moved away from leaders,,,for the most part, use them all the time for the boys as they are changing tackle all the time.

CCB has me onto using a swivel and Tyger Leader, that ties directly to the lure, for proper action, and warding off the bites. Now if they could just make it as invisable as flurocarbon.

Bobber wrote:I might need to drag a floating trailer behind the boat in order to cart them all around though.

Ahhh we've alll been asked "Why do you need so many rods, you can only fish with one at a time anyway???"

I know i'll be having a few more rods in the boat this year specifically for that purpose of switching baits quickly without the need to waste a few mins retying.

Yes, those valuable few minutes could be the difference between floating by the perfect spot for the perfect bait.........that you don't have tied on! I hate when that happens......and I do love having lots of gear, keeps me busy in the garage for hours while I wait for tournament day.

I don't think I've owned a snap-swivel for at least 20 years.

I do have a couple of barrel swivels that I use for Carolina rigging, but no snap-swivels.

I always tie direct. I have several rod/reel combo's that are tailored to the conditions I'm going to be fishing. The only time I'll retie is if I get bit off by a toothmonster or break off on a snag.

Otherwise, I will have almost every combination of bait/weight at the ready, pre-rigged on an appropriate rod. Fishing an outside edge with a 1/16th oz. T-rigged worm and spot a thick mat inside the edge? Grab the heavy outfit with the 3/4 oz. jig. See some baitfish busting behind me over deep water? Grab the Spook rod and let her fly.

Admittedly, there are days when only one rod gets a work out- the days when everything goes according to plan and there is no need to switch to plan B.

Now if I did a lot of trolling (for lakers or walleye or ?) and had to constantly experiment with colours, actions, etc. I might invest in some snap-swivels, but I can't see it happening in the near future.

CCB

I've used all types of connections. To be honest, I've never found that great of a difference. I've caught trout in gin-clear water and bass in the slop with a 12 inch leader on that you'd normally use for musky. When the fish are biting and you can get the lure to them...that's all that counts. But as a general rule all that was mentionned above is true. Tie direct when you can, but if you're contantly changing lures or types of structure... it's better to have you're line in the water than re-tieing knots.

I'm still working on tackling in fishing. !

Markus wrote:I've moved to using a barrel swivel with a flurocarbon leader tied directly to lure.

I do the same as Markus...