Mounting rod holders to a fiberglass gunnels

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Markus
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Mounting rod holders to a fiberglass gunnels

Post by Markus »

I'm going to be adding a couple new rod holders specifically for dipsey rods.

After I drill the holes, do I just use wing type nuts? Do I need to put any sealing compound in the hole around the bolt before tightning down?

I'd like to put a small plate under it, but a can't get under it. Will the dipsye set up create too much stress on the fibre glass?
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Wall-I-Guy
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Post by Wall-I-Guy »

Your other option may be a toggle bolt I think it's called. You know the type that collapses or pinches together then pops open on the other side once it goes into the hole.

Then the whole thing tightens when you tighten her down.

Just a thought :!:
Last edited by Wall-I-Guy on Wed Nov 09, 2005 6:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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roughrider
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Post by roughrider »

If you can't get large washers for backing,I guess the wingnuts with silicone added would work.Just in case people are looking to buy some dipsey holders, " Fish On" holders will not hold a dipsey rod in place,they slip in the slotted grooves from dipsey pressure :? ,need better grade holders.

roughrider out :wink:
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M.T. Livewell
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Post by M.T. Livewell »

I used 4 toggle bolts (as WIG calls them) to mount my trolling motor. Somehow managed to survive the trolling motor self deploying at 30mph, so they should be sturdy enough.

The only problem is, you have to drill holes slightly larger that the toggle bolts. And of course, the actual bolts are a smaller diameter. In other words, when you go to tighten it down, there is space/ play between the bolt and the hole cut.
The solution for me for this was a couple of rubber washers I picked up at CT in the plumbing department. They were cone shaped, so as I tightened the bolts, the tighter the washers pushed into the holes.

If that makes no sense, let me know and I'll snap you a pic.

M.T. Livewell
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skooter
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Post by skooter »

:D :D :D

Your other option is to bolt a (4 to 6" long x the width of your gunwal X 1/8 to a 1/4" thick) aluminum or SS plate on top, and then bolt the holders through it, .....it's not as good as a backing plate, ....but it will take the stress away from just your rod holder "holes", .... and "spread" it around over the length of the plate..... :wink:

Clear as mud ? :roll:

PS. ....If you PM me some demensions, .....I could probably "polish" ya up a couple, .....pic of the holders would help too....
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allan.c
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Post by allan.c »

markus,your best bet would be as scooter suggests mount them on a plate and if you could figure out a way to clamp them on without drilling any holes that would be the best, but if you need to drill holes to mount the plate use caulking(latex) on the bottom of the plate it acts as an adhesive,water sealant and a shock absorber spreading the vibrations of the rod holders out eliminating the chance of getting hairline cracks.use large flat rubber washers on the underside of the holes with a large flat washer and lock nut on top of the rubber washers so when you tighten down the bolts the rubber washer will form against the under side.when you drill your holes use a sharp bit and let it do it's job don't force it through. make at least 6 perferably 8 holes.allan.c (bredouille)
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Markus
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Post by Markus »

I thought of another solution too.

I could cut two 3-inch holes in the inside wall and reach up and attach the plates on the underside.

Then I could wire in and mount lights into the holes. This would slove my darkness problem when setting up in the early am.

My only concern is that I think the boat has a blown in hull (which is why the boat is classified unsinkable). It would suck to cut those holes and not be able to reach the underside of the gunnel.
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eye-tracker
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Post by eye-tracker »

Markus,
You can make 4inch access holes below the gunnel and use water tight hatches that un screw for access.
I have seen downrigger plates installed this way on a few glass boats.

Image


cheers'

-et
Sheldon Hatch
Just a guy that likes to fish walleye
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M.T. Livewell
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Post by M.T. Livewell »

Markus wrote: My only concern is that I think the boat has a blown in hull (which is why the boat is classified unsinkable). It would suck to cut those holes and not be able to reach the underside of the gunnel.
And you would likely void your warranty as well.

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Markus
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Post by Markus »

Good point regarding the warenty, I'll check into that.....I do want these lights.
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spinner
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Post by spinner »

I would check with the boat manufacturer to find out what type of reinforcement there is where you are planning to install your holders. Many good boat mfrs will reinforce certain areas to allow for strength in mounting of accessories. You could also ask their opinion on how.

If there is plywood or similar reinforcing the underside you could consider using the motrguide mounting isolators. They are made for surface mounting where there is no access underneath.From their site"Absorbs shock and protects electronics. Ideal for mounting all marine accessories without having to go under the deck."
http://www.basspro.com/servlet/catalog. ... get=search
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M.T. Livewell
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Post by M.T. Livewell »

Good call Spinner.
I had these on the motorguide I removed in favor of the minnkota.
And, they were a buggar to get out. Might be just what the DR ordered.

MT
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Post by spinner »

Urgent-- make sure that you end up drilling into an area where there are no wires and or hoses etc running around the gunnel.

Should have also mentioned that when drilling a hole in fiberglass it is important to have a slight chamfer on the hole to prevent damage. Here is a good link with an example of one way to accomplish this. Takes more time but can help eliminate chipping and may even help a little in preventing the spread of spidercracks.
http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Articles/ ... iberglass/
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Post by fishforfun »

On my boat, which is glass. All the deck hardware and rigging is mounted with plates both sides of the glass and shock absorbers in between,usually caulking. All mounting plates are accessible thru access plates something like ET has pictured. Never has the glass cracked or shown any signs of stress, but I have had some of the stainless steel hardware, rated for 60 to 80 thousand lb's tensile strength let go :shock: When your under sail in 40 kt winds you really wonder why the hull doesn't disintegrate, no expert but fiber glass is amazingly strong. Would recomend you check with the manufacturer before you open a 3" hole, just in case the location compromises the strength of the hull.
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