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I need to replace a door panel in the floor of the front casting platform on my Lund. Does anyone know where I can find Marine Grade Plywood? I've checked the 3 main DIY stores (Rona, Home Depot and Lowes) and it appears that none sell Marine Grade Plywood. They sell Preasure Treated Plywood (PTP), however through some research I've learned that the chimicals in the PTP will damage aluminum and true or not I do not want to take a chance on damaging my boat.

Any direction would be appreciated, Walleye Freak

Honestly you're better off buying regular plywood and applying a coating of fiberglass resin to it, which will seal it up.

That's what I did when I had a Aluminum Vhull.
Good luck.

When I was looking for some, this place close to Manotick had two sizes in stock. It was ridiculously expensive!

http://www.wood-source.com/

If the pressure treated isn't in contact with the aluminum, then the the galvanic reaction shouldn't be a concern. But Shawn's suggestion is probably your easiest way to go.

Cheers

Thanks Guys, I think I take Shawn's advice and go with the fibreglass resign application.

See you on the Rideau, Walleyeye Freak

Walleye Freak wrote:Thanks Guys, I think I take Shawn's advice and go with the fibreglass resign application.

See you on the Rideau, Walleyeye Freak

Great, have you ever done anything with fiberglass?
Chandelry boat supplies has everything you'll need.

Yes Sir and thanks again,

Walleye Freak

iankrzyzanowski wrote:When I was looking for some, this place close to Manotick had two sizes in stock. It was ridiculously expensive!

http://www.wood-source.com/

What kind of price would we be looking at for a 4x8 sheet?

Xped

I received an e-mail from the Wood Source and they indicated they have 2 grades of 18 mm Marine plywood:

BS 6566 - $128
BS 1088 - $155

Not giving it way that's or sure.

Lowes in kanata sells 1/2-3/4 douglas fir, sanded both sides, with no knots, the only difference between it and marine ply is the glue. I use it for transoms and stringers, just needs to be sealed with resin and 1.5 to 6 oz., chopped mat (csm),(your choice) i'd use 1.5-2 oz. mat for hatches, 6-8 on pieces that will be used in structural apps.,(decks/stringers) $50 for a 3/4 4x8' sheet, as opposed to marine ply @$150/ sheet. Properly sealed plywood is still the most economic way to build, and will last forever if hand laid up properly.

Thanks very much for the info Punch Rig. I will do that.

Walleye Freak

If your going to fiberglass it - don't waste your money on special finished plywood. That is for projects that are going to be stained. Knots will be filled in all the others and won't change a thing as long as you glass it in well.

Thanks for all the great advice guys.

Greaatly appreciated

MichaelGA wrote:If your going to fiberglass it - don't waste your money on special finished plywood. That is for projects that are going to be stained. Knots will be filled in all the others and won't change a thing as long as you glass it in well.

Knots will cause air voids over time,and a place for moisture to gain entry,fibercloth csm and mat are designed to be installed on smooth surfaces and rounded corners,thats why you see transoms and hatch lids,sanded to a rounded edge,and fillets that are rounded to make a smooth transition,when you change directions,in the layup.

Punch has clearly done his fair share of fibreglassing.

If this is your first time, I highly recommend a little assistance from the gourgeon (sp) brothers. They formulated West system epoxies. They have a fantastic free booklet on how to build fillets and truly make a sound watertight vessel. As well as other neat things you can do with epoxy and glass Matt.

I am a sign crafter for large custom signs and have used their product for about 15 years with no hiccups.

Essentially rounded edges not only offer strength on inside corner transitions, they also prevent water from staying there as there is no hard edge.

I always'ease' edges even with paint applications to ensure corners hold up versus cracking on the edge