Help with picking line

[xped]

Hi guys,

While certainly not new to fishing...I'll admit to being a relative noob to intelligent fishing. I'm sure you're all getting tired of being asked these types of questions...but here I go!

Purchased some new rods and reels for the upcoming season and I'm having a heck of a time determining the type of line and strength to put on them. Lots of various opinions out there on what line to choose with regards to a certain type of lure/technique. If possible, I'd like to simplify things a little for myself until I've waded into the water a little deeper and have added specific rod/reel combos for specific scenarios (future thinking).

Here's what I have and what I intended to use them for:

Dobyns Champion 704C/Lews Tournament Pro reel - Soft plastics (Texas rigged), Spinnerbaits, anything else?

Dobyns Champion 705CB GLASS/Lews Tournament Pro reel - Crankbaits, Jerkbaits, Spoons, anything else?

Reading the interwebs has one believing that I "need" a specialized rod/reel/line combo for every different type of technique. While it may not be the best solution, I have to believe there's a more gerneric line type/strength that I could use for the above.

Recommendations on the type of line and the strength would be much appreciated. And, if there's other techniques I didn't mention or I've ascribed an incorrect one for a particualr rod above, I'd certainly welcome the advice.

And just one additional question: Instead of buying more rods at this point, would it be more wise to buy addtional reels and put different lines on them? Then, I could simply change the reel on a particular rod and it satsifies the requirements of another technique? Sure it would take time changing a reel out but I can't imagine it ruining my day on the water and it saves me from buying another quality rod at this time!

Cheers and thanks for any help in advance!
Bryan

[ShawnD]

Fluro for the glass rod12-14 lbs range and Braid for the other 20lbs line but if you plan on flipping or working a frog in thick weeds with that same rod, buy 50 or 65 lbs braid.

Can't get any simpler then that.
As for Brand, I'm still testing all o them out and usually buy what ever is on special.
Seaguard is 10lb fluro, its nice but fragile, cast a mile and its smooth.

[lape0019]

Bryan,

I use mono in the 15-17 lb rating on my 734 and would say for a so called "noob", it would be your cheapest line option in case you get some birdsnests.

Secondly, I like a little stretch for my spinnerbaits and buzzbaits so it works well for me. It will also work alright for jigs and Texas rigs. You will lose some sensitivity by not using braid, but the Champion series is probably way more sensitive than anything you have used in the past so I wouldn't worry about that.

I would probably go mono on the cb rod as well but I don't have as much experience with them or that rod, so i will let someone else chime in on that one.

With the two rods you have, you will be able to do a lot of techniques to start off with using only the one mainline. If you want to buy more reels to use different lines, feel free but the capabilities of a rod are not limited to the line. They are limited to the power and tip of the rod IMO.

If I were in your shoes, I would probably stick with what you have and maybe buy a good spinning setup to take care of the more finesse styled applications.

I tried to add 1 rod per season a when I was first starting out. After three years, I had a Shimano Compre medium power, fast action with a Stradic 2500 CI4 that I used for weighted tubes and jerkbaits (I don't use this rod any more.) with 20lb braid, a champion 702sf with another Stradic CI4 with 20lb braid for weightless or close to weightless presentations/ drop shotting and the 734 for everything else. I had this paired with a Pflueger Patriarch XT (quite similar to the TP, just lighter).

Until I started with different techniques, I could fill my day with these three rods.

And questions like these are what these boards are for. I have no issues answering anything like this anytime it is asked and I highly doubt most of the members here do either.

Adam

[MichaelVandenberg]

Reading the interwebs has one believing that I "need" a specialized rod/reel/line combo for every different type of technique. While it may not be the best solution, I have to believe there's a more gerneric line type/strength that I could use for the above.

Believe what you read. Having technique specific rod & reel combos will make you a better angler as these are tools of the trade. Keep the following points in mind:

Mechanic: A good mechanic probably could get buy fixing a car with 2 or 3 different size adjustable wrenches but it is much easier with a full socket set.
Golfer: You could play a round of golf with just a 2 or 3 clubs but it is much easier playing with a full set to cover every situation.

This said, there are some very good rods that can be used for multiple techniques.

When starting out, I would recommend picking 2 or 3 techniques you love to fish and outfit your self properly. This will allow you to master those techniques with the proper equipment. Than every year, add a new rod & reel combo for another technique. After a few years you have a set of technique specific rod & reels combos that you are proud of and will last you a lifetime.

And just one additional question: Instead of buying more rods at this point, would it be more wise to buy additional reels and put different lines on them? Then, I could simply change the reel on a particular rod and it satisfies the requirements of another technique? Sure it would take time changing a reel out but I can't imagine it ruining my day on the water and it saves me from buying another quality rod at this time!

While a good fishing reel is important, the fishing rod is what makes a rod & reel combo technique specific. For example, all my baitcaster reel are Shimano Curado 200Ds (adding somo Curado Is though this year) but are all rigged on different rods; flipping, spinnerbait, frog, crankbait, jerkbait, etc. Given the choice I would also have all the same spinning reels but unfortunately I don't. Still, I have all technique specific spinning rods (tube, dropshot, senko, etc).

Mike

[curls]

For the soft plastics/spinnerbait rod, I would go with 40# braid. It's very sensitive, and you could add a 6-7 foot leader of mono or fluoro if you want a bit of stretch for throwing spinnerbaits. I go 1-2 seasons on each reel with the same braid. You could even flip it around and double your mileage with it. It's extremely durable. Brand suggestion: Daiwa Samurai Braid, 40#. I don't go less than 30# (and rarely under 40#) on a baitcasting setup as its so thin that it digs into itself on a hookset, and your next cast... well lets just say you're spending a lot of time picking and swearing, and not much time casting and reeling.

For the glass rod, I would suggest fluorocarbon. Mono has more stretch, but since that rod is a composite graphite/fiberglass construction, the rod will take a lot of the need for a stretchy line out of the equation. Fluoro sinks (better crankbait and spoon depth), fluoro is stiffer (slightly more sensitive than stetchy mono), although fluoro can be a bit more finnicky when casting. I'm not the one for advice on fluoro brands (although I've had good experiences with the Berkley Trilene 100% Fluorocarbon). Something in the 12-15# range and use a quality line conditioner (KVD) to keep it manageable on the spool.

[xped]

Thanks for the advice, guys...keep the ideas coming in!

Another question: With my 704C rod rated as 10-20lb, would putting a heavier pounded braid line (i.e. 40#) on cause me issues?

Oh...and I agree that the proper tools of the trade are needed to deliver the best quality experienece. No question! Unforutnately, it's just not an option for me right off the bat....that's why I was trying to multi-purpose the rods as much as possible in the beginning. The "need" will have to be defered to a later date.

Cheers!

[curls]

To me the lure and line ratings don't mean a whole lot - specifically the upper line rating.
The lower line rating tells me how much force is needed to put the proper bend in the rod before the line breaks (too light of line = rod overpowers the line = line snaps).
The upper line rating tells me roughly how much backbone is in the rod - higher = stronger. But, going above that with 40# or 65# or 80# braid comes down to your ability to set the drag, set the hook properly, and fight a fish properly. Just know that with really heavy braid - your hook will bend or your rod will snap before the line does. The reason ppl go heavy with braid - myself included, is because it can saw through weeds way easier than mono or fluoro and when it does, it loses a bit of strength (lowering its line #-test rating). I don't want to respool weekly with $25 spools of braid.

[jona38]

And just one additional question: Instead of buying more rods at this point, would it be more wise to buy addtional reels and put different lines on them? Then, I could simply change the reel on a particular rod and it satsifies the requirements of another technique? Sure it would take time changing a reel out but I can't imagine it ruining my day on the water and it saves me from buying another quality rod at this time!

I would buy one spinning outfit instead of more reels at this point. If you went with something like a Champion 704sf you would have excellent line up of rods that would cover a wide variety of techniques. As for line I'm with ShawnD, 12lb flouro on the 705cb and 20lb braid on the 704c. If you did add a spinning outfit I would go with 15lb braid. Jon

[lape0019]

I have yet to see where 20lb braid is a good idea on a baitcaster. My experience tells me it is great until you catch a fish or you get snagged. At that point it just digs into itself and you end up with a wicked birdsnest on your next cast.

I also don't like braid for spinnerbaits and buzzbaits ( I pretty much use braid on every other rod I own).

If you do decide to go with braid, my minimum would be 30lb and I would probably recommend 40 as well. Also make sure to use a backing with braid or it will just slip on the spool. I usually just use the heap eat mono I can find or have Ed at paddletales spool them for me.

[xped]

I would buy one spinning outfit instead of more reels at this point. If you went with something like a Champion 704sf you would have excellent line up of rods that would cover a wide variety of techniques.

Hmmmm...interesting. What is it about a spinning setup that you can't get in a baitcasting one? What would this setup be for?

[jona38]

I use a spinning set-up for 3 specific techniques. 1- Skipping senkos under docks. 2-Throwing weightless Flukes. 3- Drop-shotting. I use a 704sf with a 3000 Sustain with 15lb braid and a 15lb fluorocarbon lead for these 3. You most definitely could do this with a bait casting set-up but I prefer spinning. A spinning set-up is handy for any kind of finesse fishing. As for 20lb braid on a baitcaster, I've never had an issue and I've been using it for years but I also don't use backing on my reels. I tape my spools and it does make a difference. Yes you could say it is a waste of line but I like to re-tie often and with backing a found I was casting through my main line before long. I know 99% of the guys on this forum will disagree with me on this but its just the way I like to do it. There is another thread here about re-spooling with a lot of opinions about line you may want to check out if you haven't already. Jon

[xped]

Thanks for all the recomendations, guys!

I'll be giving them a try.