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Cochrane to Nipigon - a trip 30 + years in the making

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 9:18 am
by scuro
Fishing wasn't over for me after Kesagami ( http://www.fish-hawk.net/hawktalk/viewt ... ight=scuro ). My brother in law Chris met up with me in Cochrane for the second leg of my journey. After over 30 years Chris was finally going to meet his birth mother. What a chance to meet his relatives, see that part of the country, and also possibly get some fishing in :).

Chris hadn't been up north for a few years so he was itching to get some roadside fishing in after we left Cochrane. There are numerous places to fish on the side of road. While many of these places looked promising we had a difficult time raising fish, only small pike would hit our lures. The weather could have been a factor.

Chris on our first stop. The blackflies were bothersome.
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The view from the road was typically flat bush or fields. No postcard views from this corner of our province. The landscape from Cochrane to Nipigon is a relatively unremarkable until you get into the Nipigon area where the landforms are often stunning.

It's not uncommon on highway 11 to see abandoned buildings by the side of the road.
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The whole of northern Ontario has been hit hard by the sharp decline of the logging industry. Here is one part of our national economy that is really hurting due to the dollar's dramatic rise. In town along the way, I overheard some locals speak optimistically because houses were selling again. With the price of metals as high as they are, old mines are being reopened again and there is new exploration. Some of these northern towns will be luckier then others.

The most depressing sight on that drive was this abandoned church.
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This church is set spectacularly on a peninsula of the lake that abuts the town of Longlac. It should be the main jewel in the crown of the town of Longlac, instead windows are broken and the roof is starting to fall in. Surely the church could have been used for weddings or even as a focal point for some sort of tourist attraction.

Our journey ended in the town of Redrock which is just a short jaunt west from the town of Nipigon on the north shore of lake Superior.
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The paper mill in this town recently closed and there is talk of closing the community center because it can no longer be supported. Council states it needs to raise taxes. It's all a crying shame because the town is situated in a very scenic location and has a great little harbour. A house recently at bank auction was bought for less then the average price of a used car.

The closed paper mill.
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A view of lake Superior shore from the harbour.
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We stayed at Reflection lake resort on the lower arm of lake Nipigon. Out on the main lake water temperatures were in the low 50's. Those who came to the resort came with boats for Lakers. We picked the resort because there was no guarantee that this reunion would go well. At worst if things had gone bad, we would have simply spent a week fishing. The resort is well run in a very scenic location right off of highway 11. The cabins were about as clean as any I have ever seen and suited our needs perfectly. The fishing was unremarkable, typical of Southern Ontario, weather could have been a factor because a lot of rain fell during our stay.

Here is the RFL webpage - http://www.mccollumsresort.com/resort.htm

The view from our cabin door.
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And a little more to the left...
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The dock and lake.
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This establishment runs weeklong cruises for parties of 6 or less onto lake Nipigon where one can fish for world class Lakers. They have downriggers right off top deck at the back end of the ship. Included in that tour is 14 ft Lunds that they tow along so that guests can fish for other species. This is something I am seriously considering for next year. RFL cruise webpage - http://www.mccollumsresort.com/

Our first meeting was at their church where his birthmother is a minister.
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We came a few minutes late and they had already started the service. That didn't stop an aunt from peeking out the back door when we arrived. Our first memory is of her and her big warm-hearted smile. After church we had coffee and snacks with everyone.

I got a quick pic of the four brothers together, what great guys.
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From left to right are Chris, Donald, Raymond, and Richard. After lunch we met his grandma. All went very well. We closed out the day with an invitation from Raymond Jr. to go fishing at his camper on the north shore of lake superior.

We arrived late in the day and the view was stunning.
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We walked down to the 12 ft aluminum boat and flipped it on its side to get rid of excess rainwater. Next Raymond brought the 2hp motor from the camper and attached it to the boat. Gas was put in the top of the small motor like you would fill up your lawnmower. We started a slow chug to the point and flung out little cleos that we trolled.

Within minutes the first fish was on.
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...and within 10 minutes we had our second fish.
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Raymond admiringly looked at my well stocked tackle tray for trout trolling. I longingly looked at the beauty of this environment and the simplicity of the fishing. The grass is always greener on the other side.

Our catch for the evening. Chris's relatives all have status cards.
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Chris and I got into a routine where we would fish in the morning and then come back to the house and hang out for the afternoon with his birthmom. On the second day we hooked up with his other half-brother ( and his friend John ) and did some backroad walleye fishing. Once on the water we headed to a very unremarkable bay and drift/trolled for walleye. Richard used walleye spinning rigs with a bit of splitshot. We on the other hand fumbled around with tackle until we found something that worked. For a while you just couldn't keep a fish off of Richard's line. Even as we were moving to a different location he had fish on. We had triples a few times and probably would have had a quadruple had I not been tying my line. For an early summers afternoon of walleye fishing in the sun at 6 ft of water, I had never seen better walleye fishing. We got a late start so this wasn't even the lake he wanted to take us to. :shock: :shock:

My best for the day
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John said, that a Laker spit the hook. Lakers in 6 ft of water in July???

10 minutes later I brought up this silver and blue fish. :shock:
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We ate that fish. After researching, I now wonder if that blue walleye is be better known as "blue pike" last seen in late 50's. "Stizostedion vitreum glaucum" is now considered extinct!!!! Wikipedia chimes in on the topic - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blue_walleye

A closer look. Was I hamming it up with the last of it's kind?
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After two hours of fishing we called it a day. We kept what looks to be an insane amount of walleye. Up in Nipigon it's just an afternoon's catch on an ordinary backroad lake.
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Once the catching was done they had to be filleted and later divided amongst the two families and us. We spent a nice afternoon just sitting on the deck watching the filleting and shooting the breeze.
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I guess Chris was out of practice in the filleting department.
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After talking to Raymond and Richard we had planned to fish a species a day. They told us about huge carp and thought we were daft to be even interested in fishing for them. We also learned that the Sturgeon are so plentiful that they fish for them with shoelaces. What they do is sneak up behind the smaller ones in shallow water and them lasso their back tail with a shoelace and hold on for dear life. After those first two nice sunny days the weather was mainly cold, rainy, and windy. All the rivers were swollen and fast flowing. We had to stop the species a day after bass. That didn't stop me from fishing the harbour for lurking lakers.

Hows 2 pike in 5 casts sound?
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Here is a pic of Chris's birthmom Betty-Anne and her husband Raymond, two of the warmest and friendliest people you will ever meet. They both loved to laugh and share stories.
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Chris really warmed up to the family as did I over the week. The week was great with no hitches.

Chris and Betty-Anne seemed to have a natural rapport together. It was wonderful to see.
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He wants to go back and I hope to tag-a-long once again. Hopefully next year we can get his three sisters, parents, and grandkids to come along.

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 9:33 am
by Gord
Now thats a cool report!! :).....and it kinda tugged a little on me heartstrings too.......

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 10:15 am
by Tip-up
You have taken the time to share some amazing adventures of yours and I thank you. Your reads are up there with Bunks..One I can read over and over again..

Glad you have had a few successful trips this season..Nipigon is a spectacular and mystical place to fish. I have driven threw there or close to it before...It's land I will never forget.

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 11:04 am
by fish-n-nut
Nice trip, full of good family stuff, countryside, and fishing too! Tip-up was right, worth reading again. Thanks for sharing.
fnn

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 12:50 pm
by Moosebunk
That was superb Chris and well worth the wait. Betcha a trip like that does get the juices flowing for a return trip... and why not with family there. Met and talked with Chris in Cochrane at the Shores, great to see it all worked out for him. Got a sense he was looking forward to it but mildly stressed. Who wouldn't be.

A very unique family reunion report, and a multi-species fishery I betcha you enjoyed and learned something from. You're having a great summer so far. 8)

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 1:15 pm
by wolfe
Scuro,

This has really been your year for fishing adventures that are over the top and out of the ordinary.

Great post!

W.

PS: did you need to "help" any of your friends out of the boat with a "little push"...? 8) :lol:

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 1:24 pm
by Wallyboss
Scuro I was in Smooth Rock Falls all week, It's too bad I didn't know we could've went out for a quick fish!!!
It's true about the houses selling now. In SRF there was about 70 houses for sale for about 1 1/2 years 40 of them sold since April. They closed the Pulp and Paper mill, but they are talking about reopening a part of the mill to do Red Cedar siding and other cedar products. But it will employ only 40 people. The mill used to employ 325.

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 3:07 pm
by YakAttack
Great pictures and great report - thanks for posting!

You should send that pic of the "blue pike" to a biologist for possible ID'ing - I think it's exciting that it might be a find of an extinct species.

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 4:05 pm
by ratsotail
scuro,

What a great story of life and renewal of family roots again. I'm happy for your friend Chris :D ! The double-bonus is a great fishing story also took place...I'm intrigued after your last two reports with the the descriptions of your surroundings and the people you've met. I'm left begging for more. Do you have any more trips planned this year or can you recycle some old ones :lol: :lol: ? Good stuff and thanks for sharing more than just a fishing trip!

tight lines and regards,

ratsotail

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 4:45 pm
by scuro
ratsotail wrote:...I'm intrigued after your last two reports with the the descriptions of your surroundings and the people you've met. I'm left begging for more. Do you have any more trips planned this year or can you recycle some old ones :lol:
I'm going with the esteemed Moosebunk, Hoss, some other fellas whose names I should know, and a gal...whose name I should also know, to do some BC river fishing in late August. Target species are Sturgeon, Salmon, and some trout of some sort found up in a mountain lake. From what I hear the Sturgeon are dogged and are muscle burning fighters. I can't bring myself to do any arm curls in preparation. I'll probably curse my lack of preperation and ask for a scotch reinforcer or just say something like dang it all, you take the rod.

Never know what's going to happen when you take a group of people that really don't know each other, put them in strange surroundings, and add a dash of alcohol. :lol: There might be a good report out of that one. Push or no push :wink:

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 5:10 pm
by FireFox
Hey Scuro,

Love the northern ontario odyssey, can really see the colour of the waters in the picture of Chris on the first stop.

In one part you say that "The fishing was unremarkable, typical of Southern Ontario " -- does that mean that Nipigon was not good fishing ? I think the big lakes are generally harder to fish -- 90% of the fish in 10% of the water.
Wallyboss wrote:Scuro I was in Smooth Rock Falls[snip] They closed the Pulp and Paper mill, but they are talking about reopening a part of the mill to do Red Cedar siding and other cedar products. But it will employ only 40 people. The mill used to employ 325.
Hey WB - that plant is still running the power station off the water rights signed over to the company many years ago and selling it back to ontario hydro at a nice tidy profit. Many Northern Ontario mills are going this way since the price of power is worth more than the forest products that can be produced with it. See also the big mess in BC with Alcan and those aluminum smelters. As for the cedar plant - thats good news, Although 50,000 board feet is a lot of cedar - Im guessing that the actual forestry operations of tree harvesting will be happening over a very large area.

Its sad to see the decline in small town Ontario, and then to see the explosive growth in the GTA, Golden Triangle and Ottawa. I know there are a lot of people in tech related fields in Ottawa from Northern Ontario who would like to go back if there were jobs in the field. It seems kinda silly that we all have to cram into the same region, pay mega-$$ for land and sit in traffic when these jobs can be done in any geographic area.

Fox

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 8:18 pm
by Wallyboss
Firefox the Hydro plant is still running but employing only 3 guys. And talking about the hitech area I am one of those who would go back right away if I could land a job that pays as much as the one I have now. To fill up my car last week cost me $73.00 at 1.18/ltr up there and it cost me only $53.00 this afternoon here in Ottawa.

And for the cedar the Town is still not sure where they are going to take it from, my fishing buddy up there has been a lumberjack until he retired and now spends his time fishing and hunting, and he doesn't know of anywhere around SRF where there is cedar that is good for that most of the cedars up there are short and mostly crooked. Some are saying that the cedar is going to come from Quebec , the owner that wants to start that operation is from Baraute Que, in the Abitibi region.

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 9:02 pm
by baz fish
Now thats a nice report Scuro :P I would loved to go on a fishing trip like that. Nice fish as well :D .

Posted: Thu Jul 26, 2007 9:26 pm
by Moosebunk
You can just hand that rod right over to me Chris. I'll take care of those iddy-bitty sturgeon for ya. :lol:

Posted: Fri Jul 27, 2007 7:26 am
by scuro
FireFox wrote:Hey Scuro,
In one part you say that "The fishing was unremarkable, typical of Southern Ontario " -- does that mean that Nipigon was not good fishing ? I think the big lakes are generally harder to fish -- 90% of the fish in 10% of the water.
Fox
The backroads fishing was very good.

Reflection lake resort is on the most accessible arm of Lake Nipigon. I believe there is another resort or two on this same section along with cottages and boat ramps. The rest of Lake Nipigon is nothing like this arm and I have heard that you can go days on the main lake and see few people or no one. Being there I heard great things about lake Nipigon from others, it's a huge lake that gets little pressure. That doesn't mean that this one section of it doesn't get pressure. As I said in the post, it could have been the bad weather that we experienced over the week and that the region experienced for much of month. Yet from other guests and even the owner's son. I saw and heard the walleye fishing was tough. I wouldn't rent the boat in the evenings but watched the owner's 30ish year old son leave spots without catching a thing. I was with my brother in law so thought it better that we fish for pike. Some spots that just looked perfect needed a lot of work to pull out any pike. He got skunked one morning. I had better pike action down at the Red Rock harbour.

There was one couple that came from Michigan. They brought two boats. One an 18ft with a good sized motor for Lakers on the main lake and then a 12 ft that they had put on top of the 18 ft to haul which they used for backroad fishing. They came back with awesome walleye.