I recently inherited a old Johnson Outboard not sure of HP 2, 2.5 or 3 it is red and white with tank on top no neutral or reverse so I am guessing 1956 to 1958. Although this motor has been unused for more than 6 years I filled it with chainsaw gas 40:1 and put it in a barrel it started on the 5th pull and ran fairly well.
Does any one know the correct fuel oil mix?
There are two adjustment nobs on front I assume high and low speed adjustments. How do you properly adjust these ? I wouldn't be disapointed if I could get it to idol down a little slower.
I will get a new spark plug and change lower unit oil at the first opertounity ( your right I can't spell)
what else should I do?
I would like to use this on my square stern canoe when I don't want to take out the big boat It will be easier than lugging a battery and electric motor.
Thanks Frank
Old Outboard
- troutnmuskiehunter
- Diamond Participant
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- Joined: Wed Feb 28, 2007 11:30 am
I found this chart on the net......you might be able to cross reference the numbers if your motor still has the label/serial tag on it.....from what I understand, the old Johnson seahorses prior to 1963 used 24:1 mix...
http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w333 ... lchart.jpg
Best Answer - Chosen by Asker
A lot of lore surrounding these old engines, because so many are still in service, there's tons of experience for people to draw on -- to my knowledge, everything ric says is right on target. Millsym might be right, but you can't make a blanket statement without knowing the year of manufacture.
All post-'63 johnnyrudes are 50:1 (exceptions may exist for V-6 racing/commercial/military/special-use models but you aren't interested in that).
Here's an image of an old Johnson oiling chart. Your model number will be on the port side of the engine mounting bracket.
http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w333/…
All the pre-'63 motors were 24:1, but notice the footnote: Johnson later revised the spec to 50:1 for a lot of 'em. They issued the revision because of favorable experience with redesigned crank bearings and the newer TCW oils.
If you aren't comfortable with 50:1, the previous answerer's recommendation of 40:1 is a pretty good place to be.
http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w333 ... lchart.jpg
Best Answer - Chosen by Asker
A lot of lore surrounding these old engines, because so many are still in service, there's tons of experience for people to draw on -- to my knowledge, everything ric says is right on target. Millsym might be right, but you can't make a blanket statement without knowing the year of manufacture.
All post-'63 johnnyrudes are 50:1 (exceptions may exist for V-6 racing/commercial/military/special-use models but you aren't interested in that).
Here's an image of an old Johnson oiling chart. Your model number will be on the port side of the engine mounting bracket.
http://i521.photobucket.com/albums/w333/…
All the pre-'63 motors were 24:1, but notice the footnote: Johnson later revised the spec to 50:1 for a lot of 'em. They issued the revision because of favorable experience with redesigned crank bearings and the newer TCW oils.
If you aren't comfortable with 50:1, the previous answerer's recommendation of 40:1 is a pretty good place to be.
- horsehunter
- Bronze Participant
- Posts: 133
- Joined: Sun Aug 16, 2009 4:14 am
JW-12 is a 3 HP motor made in 1956. WOT RPM is 4000.
As for adjusting the needles.
High speed needle (lower cavity) loosen sleeve nut then rotate needle clockwise until it seats lightly. Now back out counterclockwise 3/4 of a turn then tighten sleeve nut only until it is difficult to turn needle by hand.
Low speed needle (top cavity) is the same procedure as the high speed one except you will back this one out 1-1/2 turns before tightening the sleeve nut.
If this does not work you may have to remove the needles and inspect for wear. Good needles will have straight sides tapering down to the point without grooves.
Hope this helps: Rick
As for adjusting the needles.
High speed needle (lower cavity) loosen sleeve nut then rotate needle clockwise until it seats lightly. Now back out counterclockwise 3/4 of a turn then tighten sleeve nut only until it is difficult to turn needle by hand.
Low speed needle (top cavity) is the same procedure as the high speed one except you will back this one out 1-1/2 turns before tightening the sleeve nut.
If this does not work you may have to remove the needles and inspect for wear. Good needles will have straight sides tapering down to the point without grooves.
Hope this helps: Rick