Bottom End Oil - Spark Plug - Fuel Filter Changes

[Seaweed]

Ok everyone

How often do you change the following things on your rig?

Bottom End Oil - Two years for me or whenever she gets milky

Spark Plugs - Two Years

Fuel Filter - Never change mine

Want to thank Mikey for mentioning about running fuel cell low and possibily getting dirt in fuel filter... mine has been sort of running on two at will... or it seems like it not totally sure. But next spring she is going to get a new filter and plugs and she should be back at full song. The plugs all looked good and the same so?

Another thing I would appreciate some input on is... when you pull the lower drain plug on your bottom end there is a magnet there that I hear is used to trap any steel slivers. Well today I noticed some on mine but I am not sure what catagorizes a lot of still slivers versus a normal amount of scrappings. What do you all see when you pull your plug out in relation to steel filings? Thanks.

[Wall-I-Guy]

I'm no mechanic by any strectch but, shouldn't the shavings disappear after awhile? I can understand them being there if it's a new engine, but after a few drainings...I wouldn't think there'd be any.

Change the oil and filter every fall, plugs avery 2-3 years. Havn't had to change a fuel filter yet. Don't usually keep a motor that long.

[Markus]

lower end oil - Every 6 months.

plugs - every year

fuel filter - every year


I've become pariniod over the past few years....

[Mikey]

Seaweed...

Lower unit oil: twice a season. Synthetic gear oil lube recommended.
Note: Some metal shavings on the plug are normal, even after break in. A plug that is completely covered in shavings is not. This is an indication of excessive gear wear.

Note: You metioned you change it "when it gets milky". If you have ANY signs of milky oil, have your lower unit presuure tested for a seal leak, milky oil is a direct result of a leaking seal. Have it repaired...or be prepared to replace the lower unit.

Plugs: If you do alot of hours over a season, change them every year. Fouled plugs can cause poor performance at both idle and WOT and are inefficient on fuel & oil consumtion. Use manufacturer recommended plugs. A fouled plug is not always visible to the naked eye.

Fuel Filter:Replace yearly. Residue from running tanks to empty result in the filter doing it's job...it catches debris. When it becomes clogged inconsistent fuel flow to the engine will result in a performance drop. Cheap and easy maintenance.

Note: Some larger boats and bassboats have a water seperator. This filters the fuel and seperates any water than may result from condensation or old gas from a station that sells very little. The filter looks like an oil filter and is located in between the fuel line from your tank and the engine. This filter should be changed minimum once every 2 seasons. When you disconnect it, you'll see the water floating on the top. The filter works on a weight system. The water will always rise to the top of the filter seeing as gas is heavier. The draw from the engine pulls from the bottom of the filter where the pure gas will settle. If you don't have one of these filters, and run large fuel tanks, install one, it's relatively cheap and easy to do, and will save you alot of headaches on the water. Hope this helps.

Regards,
Mikey

[Mikey]

lower end oil - Every 6 months.


I've become pariniod over the past few years....

Markus, I noticed you run your boat basically year round in some very cold conditions. You may want to consider using synthetic oils in both your lower unit and motor. It doesn't thicken up in cold conditions nearly as bad as regular oils.Giving you better protection from the start up unlike regular oils that need to be warmed to allow proper flow and protection. Just a suggestion bud.

M

[Markus]

Thanks Mikey, I'll look into this.

Out of curiousity, what are the "cons" of using synthetic oil?

[roughrider]

Cons,they cost more.

I've used amsoil in my lower unit and oil injection for 11 years,even picked up another 100 RPM's

Synthetic wheel bearing lube too.

roughrider out

[Markus]

Thanks RR, cost isn't a con though...I don't mind paying more for something that is better quality.

[Mikey]

Roughriders correct Markus, only setback is cost, otherwise the performance and durability is worth the extra couple of dollars. Especially running under harsh conditions such as you do.

[Seaweed]

Thanks for the great input on this subject.

Mikey the milky oil I was referring to was in my old motor. The stuff that came out of the bottom end on the Merc was black as tar so no leak there and the slivers were very minimal... just got me worried.

[skooter]

Everything is yearly for me, .....not sure if the marina changed my filter or not though...

I think new plugs every year helps when you do a lot of trolling.....

[Erie-Eyes]

I have continued to have motors (both 4 strokes) winterized by my dealer every Fall as main motor is still under warranty. Service consists of all of the above ie. new plugs, oil changes, filter changes, gear oil, livewell treatment, battery storage, and trailer wheel bearing checks. To date my seasonal running time has been less than 100 hours so annual oil changes etc. meets manufacturers requirements and protects warranty. Dealer costs may be more than self service, but I'm no mechanic, and like the idea of being able to run all season with no problems due to maintenance.

[SkeeterJohn]

Another item which is often neglected is the water impeller... it doesn't need to be checked every year but is an item that should be replaced from time to time. Checking it requires the lower unit to be removed.

[ady]

The water will always rise to the top of the filter seeing as gas is heavier.

Not disputing the operation of the seperators, but I thought water is heavier, water in the gas will sink to the bottom of the tank and get into the engine first. Draining some fuel with water in it will show the water at the bottom. Anyway:

Lower Unit Oil: - Fall, Spring, Summer. It's cheap so what the hell.

Plugs - every Spring

Filter - haven't had one till now (I think - old motor was a 60Merc). Will be a spring job from now on.

No one has mentioned 4strokes and the engine oil in particular. Any thoughts on how oftern to change this.


I don't think the jury is really out on synthetics, they are great for winter by maintaining a more consistent viscosity but when compared to a quality mineral??? I don't know if there is any real gain. I thought minerals had a better sheer strength. I know that once you make a choice you should not change it, well too often anyway, I heard that the 2 oil types have different properties when it comes to oil seals, changing the oil types could lead to leaks!!! Another topic could be oil additives, I have never heard of anyone using them on boat engines but there are numerous brands on the market - any thoughts here???

[Wall-I-Guy]

No one has mentioned 4strokes and the engine oil in particular. Any thoughts on how oftern to change this.

I change that and the oil filter every year myself.