jackplate on aluminum boat ?

[furious]

That's a good point Sheldon. A hydraulic plate would always be the best choice for anyone looking to get the best performance out of their hull, be it a glass, aluminum, walleye or bass boat. The ability to raise and lower your engine on the fly to suit water conditions is the key. Usually once the boat is setup though the engine height is left alone, therefore a manual plate is more economical. In meanmuskies case he is interested in speed, therefore the setback and raised engine is critical to raise rpm's and get the lower unit in the hump or clean water right behind where the motor usually is. In your case if you wanted better handling for example, the extra setback really helps as it balances the boat better, but you may want to raise or lower the engine for better rough water performance. It would probably help in trolling as wel. You could lower the engine in heavy following seas to try and keep better control of the boat when the stern gets lifted by big waves.

[meanmuskie]

Well i played around a bit and got 40.5 mph gps with 2 adults and 41.5 by myself . seems to run best at 4.5'' below pad (bottom of v). I'm not done playing with her yet . Before my etec i had a 90 hp ficht and she ran around 42-43 with a crappy 4 blade alum prop 12.5 x 19 . I'm going to get everything i can out of this etec. I asked dealer why ficht was faster and was told because ficht was 4 cyl, and etec 3 cyl.I thought 90hp is 90hp regardless of cylinders. Maybe 3 cyl are more finicky when it comes to props. Glad i am on the right track and going faster

[mikemicropterus]

Ones is 3 and the other 4 BS. Its the props. The Michigan wheel for all it's worth is not Raker. Remember meanmuskie you get what you pay for. You wanted a cheap prop and you got one. Who cares about speed you want RPM'S and you want WOT. The speed will come form the RPM. For all it's worth most responses have poopooed the idea, furious just speaks in theory and sheldon "I am no expert on props or jackplates,"

Guys how does this help.

Sheldon did you know that Crestliner made an SST transom to extend the boat and make like it had a set-back. The idea of the setback is to get the correct enginie height for that particular set-up, something that is not possible with the regular way of mounting a motor, via manufacturers holes.

Also the thing I would not be doingh in rough water is submerging the motor even furhter. There are idle relief passages located at the base of the powerhead and they are designed to allow the exhuast to exit when the boat is not on plane. Picture this, you get to a stop sign and I walk up behind your car and plug the exhaust, what's going to happen is the motor will stall.
If you can't get it out you won't get it in. This is what happens when your boat comes off plane the exhaust chamber fills with water and plugs the exhaust essentiallly. So the furher in the water the engine goes the slower it will idle and the harder it will be to maintain. Try it and see, as you trim the motor up it will idle higher, less restriction.
I've worked on lots of boats and have yet to see one not perform better wiht a set-back and have had not problem with loosing bite. They make props to handle this situation. Now on a kicker motor I could see wanting to get it down into the water but on the big motor if it isn't a DI or fuel injected 4-stroke it will not idle if it is put in past it's exhaust relief holes. Physics is hard to argue with.

Sheldon there is life after walleye fishing you know. Alsio Sheldon alot of Deep-V boats are modified-V's meaning they flatten out at the transon. Out of all the walley boats(tin) I have seen, only Crestliner had a V to the transom that I can remember and even to-day they are using modified V. And any V bottom boat would benefit from having the motor farther off the back as the furhter you go back the cleaner the water is and that is where the prop comes in.
The higher the engine the less drag and the more RPM then more speed. Now if the prop does not have the proper cupping no matter how hight he engine is the prop will not be able to hold the bow of the boat out of the water.

meanmuskie stop listening to your dealer he is only interested in your money not how fast you want to go. If he was interested in helping you he would not have let you by that prop. Take it back and get your money back and save up for a raker or stop where you are now because this is as good as it is going to get. The prop is the difference.

My boat does I'm not sure how fast because all I want is 6000 rpm evertime I go out. If I am by myself I use my RPM control module(my brain) and I back off the throttle, reason being I want my boat to go as fast as it can with a full load. I run a 26 inch prop and turn it at 6000rpm anf the formula states that I should be getting close to 80 mph. Now when I first got the boat and NEW RAKER I had incredible bow-lift. I have a 2004 Gambler Outlaw with a 2000 200hp Fitch with a T&H setback, FACTORY INSTALLED. Any good bass boat manufacturer will sell the boat with a set-back. Customer coming gotta go

[eye-tracker]

Mikemicropterus,

Thanks for the very informative lesson and information. I will make sure to store this data and pass this information on to the company that rigs my next walleye boat.

Fish on...

-Sheldon

[furious]

Well Mike I do believe I told meanmuskie about the rpm's at least twice in earlier posts:

"You should see your RPM's and speed increasing as you lift your motor. When your pressure starts to drop and your rooster tail is getting higher than the top of the engine cowling after trimming, Stop! Lower it down a 1/4 inch and you should be done. You may need to go up a pitch in prop to keep your RPM's in line and that is good, you will be going faster. "


"That's pretty good right now, a stainless prop on it's own would give you a decent increase, but add the plate as well and you will notice a big difference. The nice thing about the T/H Marine plates is they have a part called the Hole Shot plate. It goes on the bottom of the jackplate and minimizes water drag on holeshot, that makes a big difference. That may also allow you to use a n even higher pitch prop, providing your rpm's are not too low."

The cost involved with buying and trying a bunch of props is staggering. As a dealer or marine serviceman you should know that. So a person who has just dropped money on a plate and installation etc. may be interested in saving a few bucks on the prop. Is this going to give him the best results? No. But he can always try and find a buddy or a hawktalker with a different Raker and ask to try it.

This is a discussion board, it is used to share information, seek help and talk about our fishing boats. I for one don't care for your comments about me in regards to what I post in "theory". I have set up my own new boat this summer and the method I used was not theoretical. It was to the point and factual. The same one I shared with meanmuskie. I don't see how your helping with your belittling posts.

Do me a favour and don't insult my intelligence and experience with boating and fishing and I won't insult your's either.

[mikemicropterus]

I don't see anywhere in the post a belittteling of you.
I know I took a shot at sheldon and he in turn was mature about it and accepted the comment.

I don't know what your issue is with my post. There are other ways to get a prop and obviously the shops in your area don't offer that kind of service. I do.
I don't understand your comments and I apologise for the theory comment you've done ONE boat and that makes your comments gospel????????

I f this is discussion where did you get your numbers from??????
Is the motor height on a modified V the same as a deep V???????
On a bass boat with a pad where do you start??????

I can answer all those questions becasuse I have been doing this for 20 years not this year. Becuase each boat is different and 3" on one is not the same as 3" on another. That is what I am trying to get across to you furious, your information is not wrong but it is also not complete. YOur singular experience does not cover all the scenarios for each style of hull and that is the difference iin the starting heights. I have done so many and each can be different, would you have wanted to be the cause of this gentleman's motor demise all because you may have ommitted an important procedure, these boards can be dangerous to some of the novices, say this guy had a 175 on the back and was capable of doing 65 plus and your comments made the boat unstable and the guy crashed or ran into somebody because he lost control. how would that make you feel???????We are responsible for our comments and in the guise of being helpful sometimes we say too much or not enough.

When I put a set-back on I look at the whole picture. The steeering, transom and most of all the experience of the operator. Do you know why they are making boater take an exam to know the RULES of the water. That just goes to show the lack of knowledge the average boater exhibits. When the boat s[peed increases to a certain # the boats become unstable, chine walking. Something you would never experience if your boat speed stays under 60mph.
My boat POPS at about 65 and then it accelerates to 80 in a matter of seconds because the hull has been lifted from the water by the PROP>
RAKER> Now this year I hit a couple of rocks and from the water pressure and weeds, the prop has lost some of it's cuppping thus has lost some bite. It doesn't POP as well. This increase in speed makes the boat FLY and fun to drive but it took me a full year to know how to handle the boat in every condition and I have been driving over 60mph for 20 years.


Oh by the way detwiller makes a way better set-back than cmc or t&h even though I sell t&h. I put one on a bass boat this spring and it makes my t&h look old.

So furious lighten up and save your fuming for someone who really puts you down. I made a comment about your comments not YOU.
I got work to do.

Sheldon I still got a jig bite going on Mississippi

[meanmuskie]

Well i found another 1.5 mph by moving my trolling motor batteries from the bow to the back of the boat The boat now feels like it's floating on air. I did a pass with my friend on shore watching and he said only about 2-2 1/2 ft of the hull were touching the water. It feels like a different boat now . I think the hull is working at it's peak now so i'm going to concentrate on the prop more now . I know someone with a raker 20 pitch and i'm hoping they let me try it out.

[furious]

Whaever, like all internet discussion boards everyone is an expert at everything. Whether I have setup 1 boat or 20 years worth of boats is irrelevant. I will stop posting on this thread now as my experience is 1/20th of yours I'll let the experts handle it.

Good Luck meanmuskie, apparently your in capable hands now.

[mikemicropterus]

good attitude furious,