Ad blocker detected: Our website is made possible by displaying online advertisements to our visitors. Please consider supporting us by disabling your ad blocker on our website.
Not necessarily true....though I do store my boat inside which will definitely help....I used standard 3/8ths plywood....after three plus seasons now....not even an issue....
I figured at 3 or 4 times the price for marine grade, I'll replace the floor every 4 or 5 years if I have to and it'd still be cheaper....though I don't that happening anytime soon...
RJ
After checking what type of ply my father picked up last season for our project, I found out Anthony and I used 3/8ths ply as well. So it's not a must...
Well I made most of the template today, still a couple little pieces I need to cut out, I had a couple old sheets of PW lying around, it was no good for anything else so I used that.
Still trying to decide whether to go with PW or aluminum Aluminum will be much lighter,...... and it's pretty available... so I'm thinking that's what I'll do... might take a little longer, but it'll be worth it.
I'll be putting a piece up from the floor to the deck to close that back spot in under the rear deck, and the open spot at the bow will be covered to make a compartment for anchor, life jackets, etc.
Looks good Fishnsledder Looking forward to seeing the final outcome. Jig head and I will be doing a few mods to our boats this year as well. Stay tunned, will post our finished project in the Boat forums
Just a quick question people..... I'm about to buy a bow mount and I was wondering what you think...... would the 40lb Minn Kota Power drive be enough for my boat?... It's a 16ft aluminum, custom front and rear aluminum casting decks, battery in the back, livewell in the middle, and anchor, life jackets, etc. up front, plus 2 swivel seats. all of these mods are in progress Back to the question, 40lb or 55lb?? anyone who has experience with these motors... SPEAK UP!!
Any input would be great,
Thanks
Dennis
P.S. Hey Nodie, not got your boat out yet?... where's your pics??
nice Nodie! you putting a bow mount trolling motor on that??... and what do you have pushing it?... I only have a 7.5 hp.... it trolls like a dream, but getting from point A to B, is like watching paint dry.... I need a 15 or 20 hp.
Thanks for the input Fishin Loon...... is your 16ft just a basic boat like mine?... or is it a 16ft legend or lund that's already decked out?
The front seat looks like it needs to be centered a bit more Boat must sit funny in the water no??
Great pics!
Getting the boats ready this weekend The new fisher 'Laker' 14' is sitting in the driveway at my dads place and I have not had a chance to see it because of my trip. That meens I could bring my dinky 12' home and soup it up for crappie and bassin' at Petrie no need for 3 boats up at the cottage...
If you want to make it pretty, I would recommend marine grade carpet from the Chandlery. It's a real upgrade from indoor/outdoor carpet. http://www.thechandleryonline.com
If you guys are shopping for a cheap and easy way to have removable seating, Canadian Tire has a couple of goodies to consider. It is recessed pedestal seating, so there is nothing to trip over when you remove the seat. And the price is pretty fair.
Seat post - $19.99
Seat Mount - $16.99
(this picture is upside down)
Seat Base - $26.99
(for a better undstanding, this picture is upside down. The part that sticks up actually goes below the floor)
First time on the site.
Nice work guys. I converted a 14S Lund to frontdeck with a pop-out hatch, rear pop-out cover over gas tank, small bow deck for electric and popped a livewell into the center seat space (but at the expense of some floatation foam).
Livewell was a galvanized tank that was custom made to fit and utilize max existing space. This did not rust over the 17+ yrs of use. Used a plastic hatch door for the livewell about 8x24.
A couple of things that I learned over time: 1) Do not raise the floor too much. I did not put in a floor, choosing to "paint" the aluminum floor with a non-slip paint. (Do not gum up the natural water runways under the ribs as it will cause puddling) If the floor is raised too much, the center of gravity of the boat shifts and it may become unstable quicker.
2) Use aluminum and/or stainless steel hardware to eliminate rust effects. I originally used some steel L to form the supports for the front deck and rear hatch, eventually replaced with aluminum. Also goes for bolts, nuts, etc. Try to use carraige bolts if possible. This eliminates small edges on bolt drives which may snag rainsuits, clothes and skin.
I used both marine and Thompson coated wood. Had to replace decking and carpets 2-3 times. Note that I stored this outside with no cover for many years at first. Only difference in the wood seemed to be the better quality of the marine wood as it stayed better longer in its latter stages.
I tried in/out patio carpet as well as HD case carpet (used for flight cases and speakers). Carpet glue seemed to break down after time but silicone really held well. This may have given an extra waterproof layer to the wood, also.
If I recall anything else, I'll let you know.
I'll keep on reading. Taking my sons up to Macrae Park (Orillia) for some bass fishing in August and will be asking questions later on.
First time on the site.
Nice work guys. I converted a 14S Lund to frontdeck with a pop-out hatch, rear pop-out cover over gas tank, small bow deck for electric and popped a livewell into the center seat space (but at the expense of some floatation foam).
Livewell was a galvanized tank that was custom made to fit and utilize max existing space. This did not rust over the 17+ yrs of use. Used a plastic hatch door for the livewell about 8x24.
A couple of things that I learned over time: 1) Do not raise the floor too much. I did not put in a floor, choosing to "paint" the aluminum floor with a non-slip paint. (Do not gum up the natural water runways under the ribs as it will cause puddling) If the floor is raised too much, the center of gravity of the boat shifts and it may become unstable quicker.
2) Use aluminum and/or stainless steel hardware to eliminate rust effects. I originally used some steel L to form the supports for the front deck and rear hatch, eventually replaced with aluminum. Also goes for bolts, nuts, etc. Try to use carraige bolts if possible. This eliminates small edges on bolt drives which may snag rainsuits, clothes and skin.
I used both marine and Thompson coated wood. Had to replace decking and carpets 2-3 times. Note that I stored this outside with no cover for many years at first. Only difference in the wood seemed to be the better quality of the marine wood as it stayed better longer in its latter stages.
I tried in/out patio carpet as well as HD case carpet (used for flight cases and speakers). Carpet glue seemed to break down after time but silicone really held well. This may have given an extra waterproof layer to the wood, also.
If I recall anything else, I'll let you know.
I'll keep on reading. Taking my sons up to Macrae Park (Orillia) for some bass fishing in August and will be asking questions later on.
After checking what type of ply my father picked up last season for our project, I found out Anthony and I used 3/8ths ply as well. 
Aluminum will be much lighter,...... and it's pretty available... so I'm thinking that's what I'll do... might take a little longer, but it'll be worth it. 
Looking forward to seeing the final outcome. Jig head and I will be doing a few mods to our boats this year as well. Stay tunned, will post our finished project in the Boat forums 
Back to the question, 40lb or 55lb?? anyone who has experience with these motors... SPEAK UP!! 
