Fixing Leaky Rivets

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MTF
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Fixing Leaky Rivets

Post by MTF »

Hoping someone here might know, I have a 14' tinny that has a leak. I had a guy in Kingston re-build an old boat for me....and he did a good job, the boat looks great, he built in a raised floor, livewell, electronics, lights, pumps the whole nine yards....except the damn thing leaks. And I'm not hard on the boat at all...I brought it back to him several times (1.5 hours driving there and 1.5 hours back), each time telling me the leak(s) were fixed and each time I put it back in the water the damn thing was still leaking. I called the guy back again and we got into a heated discussion and at the end of the day he said no more warranty (your problem now sucker) :twisted:

So my question is do any of you know where I can get this fixed once and for all, as I can't seem to locate the leak(s) myself under the floor and don't have the tools or knowhow to fix this. I want this done by somebody who knows what they are doing and will stand behind their work, I don't mind paying well for a job done well.

Its not too bad, I have my pumps on a switch so it just takes a flick of the switch to empty out the water, however I want to sell the boat and upgrade for next season and it would be way eaiser to sell w/out a leak.

Thanks in advance to all that reply

Marc,
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Post by orrsey »

marc,
Put the boat on the trailer and fill it full of water. Wait to see where the wet spot is on the bottom...that should help u locate. How thick is the aluminum on your boat? If the leak is in a spot on the bottom that gives with waves etc your going to have a hell of a time. Most epoxy's out there cure rock solid with no give and in the end will crack if its applied anywhere that flexes. I know this from experience. I have had the same problem with my little duck boat. I have found one at princess auto that comes in a green stick, just heat it up with a propane torch and apply, seems to be pliable but I haven't water tested it yet. You can also look for an aluminum welder but they can be hard to find, especially if your boat is thin they may not want to touch it. Good luck keep us posted.

orrsey
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Post by FisherLife420 »

If you can find the leak by filling the boat maybe try putting some 3M Marine Sealant 5200 on it...

3M Marine Sealant 5200 is perhaps the best stuff for sealing leaky joints and rivets. Its tough and flexible. Used it 2 years ago, replaced rivets and did some patching... haven't had a leak yet.

$14 at Canadian tire.
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Post by Mick »

[quote="orrsey"]marc,
I have found one at princess auto that comes in a green stick, just heat it up with a propane torch and apply, seems to be pliable but I haven't water tested it yet. [/quote]

about 15 years ago my dad bought an old runabout - just after purchase he realized it leaked, in a few places. We used this green stuff on every rivet on the bottom of the hull. He had that boat for a few seasons and it never leaked again. Each rivet had about a quarter sized spot of this melted green goo - didn't look great but it didn't leak. IIRC I think you can paint this stuff too

Mick
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Post by cprince »

What some (I think) are talking about is Aluminum Braising. There are aluminum braising rods out there that could possibly help you, but I would not put this in a high stress area. Nothing replaces welding; where they melt the aluminum to other melted aluminum. Braising melts only the rods and not the existing aluminum, so the bond is surface.

If you go the JB Weld or Starbrite route, here is something I posted in another thread;

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Make certain that you take a wire brush on a drill and bring the area down to bare metal. After that wash down with vinegar and water. Make certain that you mix it properly. Smooth it over with a wet hand.

I also applied epoxy paint over top of it to protect it. Been a year and a LOT of use.... no problem.

I used StarBrite on mine and not JB weld, but they are the same thing as long as they say that they are specifically formulated for use on Aluminum... if it does not say specifically on the packaging "For use on aluminum", forget it!! There are many different formulas out there for different metals.
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Get it welded if it is bad or in a high stress place like the transome or it is a big-ish hole. If it is just loose rivets, they often just need to be peened.

After tightening the rivets, I would recommend the following (Again from one of my posts on another thread!)

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I just bought a quart of Gluvit from the Chandlery in Ottawa. (about $50). This will do all my seams and rivets under the waterline. I will apply this on the inside of the boat. This should be done only after using a wire wheel on my die-grinder and getting the spots down to bare metal. After that I will wipe it down with a strong vinegar solution.

Oh yah... I will also give most of the rivets a good peen shot on one side while someone holds a mallet on the other side to tighten the rivets.

Next year (Or this year if I get another boat to use while I work on this one) I will coat the outside bellow the water line with a product that I order specially from FLA called Fasco 9X SteelFlex (http://www.fascoepoxies.com/ ).

It is the best thing in the world (IMHO) for drift boats or any boat that will get beached a lot. It will help you glide through the water lickety split.

There is also another product called Frog Spit that I have no experience with but have heard good things about.

You can add pigment to SteelFlex and Gluvit, but they need to be Epoxy friendly...

Oh yeah... If you go with SteelFlex, make sure you take care when putting on and off the trailer... it will slip off if you are not careful!! Seriously...!!"

I have since applied the Gluvit and used the boat yesterday... WORKS GREAT!!

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Been using my boat (And pounding the crap out of it in rough waters...) all spring and summer... dry as a nun's ... umm... errr.... sense of humor.


Good luck and tell us who everything turns out!

Craig
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Post by orrsey »

Actually this green stuff turns into almost like a very durable rubber, and doesnt cure rock solid like a jb weld. I have bounced the aluminum where it is applied and it seems to give very well....time will tell.

orrsey
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Post by FisherLife420 »

I'd put JB Weld at the very bottom of the list... tends to crack fairly easily.
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Post by zum »

Riveted aluminum boats,flex.
JB weld doesn't want to.
Try finding the leaky rivets,either re buck them or replace them,with proper solid rivets,not the type you but in with a rivet gun.
After you replace or re buck the rivets,put some steelflex on the bottom or waterline,that stuff is tough as nails,pretty slippery too.
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Post by MTF »

Awesome guys, thanks for all the info...I'll let you know how it turns out.
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