Lead lengths behind your rigger balls vary day to day but below I will post the general rule of thumb that I have used that work. I start with these leads and either shortens or length to what the fish want at that time.
Riggers Down: setback (from ball)
3'-10' down 55'-75' back
10-20' down 35-55' back
25-35' down 20-45' back
35-45 down 15-35' back
45-55' down 10-25' back
55+ down 10-15' back
The above down and back charter is for main lines. If I stack a rod on the same downrigger I will place the stacked rod 10' above the main and 10' farther back. Example of a stacked rigger (2 rods) I used yesterday: deep rod 65' down and 12' back, second rod 55'down and 20' back.
Cheaters
These are deadly. To prove my point between Friday and Saturday they took over 50% of my fish! I usually don't talk numbers but to drive my point home that was an extra 15 hook ups Before we go further on setting them up I must give a word of advice on hooking up while running these. REEL< REEL<REEL> set the hook a few times and reel, set the hook again. Reason being is that the cheaters have to slide down the main line until they hit the other lure (allot of "slack time"). Some times the rod will not even pop out of the rigger release -it will just jump and bob around like crazy.
Coffee brake (fingers tired) I'm back
Rigging cheaters: Take a section of fishing line 6 to 8 foot long. I run 15 to 20 pound fluorocarbon for my cheaters and sliders. On one end of the section of line attach a coast lock snap on the other end a snap swivel. Attach a spoon to the swivel end.
Now for running/seating the rig;
first this setup should only be used on either a single rod/rigger combo or the highest stacked rigger rod - other wise tangle city!
Lets say you are fishing 65 down and want to add a cheater to your spread. Take the rod and let out 15' for your set back, attach to your release and lower rigger down 5-10 foot. Now take a #5 rubber band and half hitch thru your main line (between rod tip and rigger release). Next attach the snap end of the cheater line thru the loop in the half hitched rubber band and your main line. This will hold it at that depth. Toss the cheater/spoon out into the water and then just lower your rigger to the desired depth. When a fish whacks the cheater the rubber band will snap, the cheater will slide down to your main lure and you just fight the fish, your main lure holder the cheater.
Now if you get a release on the main lure, fight the fish till you can reach the cheater rig. A quick pull will bust the rubber band and you can fish reeling in your fish without the rubber band messing up your rod tip. Simple!
There are other methods to attach a cheater, I have tried them all over the past 20 years, the rubber bands seem to be the cheapest and easiest to use.
Sliders
A "slider" is the same set up as a cheater but with out the rubber band. You attach the snap end of the line thru your main line and it just slides "freely" down. The Natural bow in your mainline between the rod tip and rigger release creates this bow. The slider will slide down to about half the depth of your rigger.
Added note. To rig a free slider. Set up your rigger like normal 9lowered down) once it is set up (at depth you wish to fish) THEN attach the free slider.
A few points that will save headaches and put more fish in your boat. With cheaters. 5-8 foot above seems to be best except when you are cheater above a dodger or flasher rig. For this go with 10 to 12' above so it will not tangle with the flasher dancing around. Next point matching colors (same shades) work best. Example black/silver main lure with black/white/glow cheater. Same size lures work good or a mag/28 combo.
With sliders small spoons (nk28 size or smaller work best).
Go get them and hope this helps.
_________________
King Me
Capt. Steven Drave
The bow in the line will keep the cheater in place...so simple that it hurts not to have thought of it...thanks...