my 50 merc 2 stroke let me down

[horsehunter]

went out fishing today and motor started right up and after a short run shut down and fished with the bow mount. When it was time to come home no amount of cranking would start it so I came home on the electric.

At home I hooked up the ear muffs and hose and took of the shroud. I noticed the chokes were wide open and the solonide that activates them wasnt doing anything. I wedged a screw driver in the linkage to close the chokes and the engine started before the key was half turned.

Now my question if I put a test light between the two terminals on the solonide will that tell me if the problem is wiring or a bad solonide?

I know the smallengine guy intown wont take it for about 2 or 3 weeks

Thanks in advance

Frank

[cprince]

went out fishing today and motor started right up and after a short run shut down and fished with the bow mount. When it was time to come home no amount of cranking would start it so I came home on the electric.

At home I hooked up the ear muffs and hose and took of the shroud. I noticed the chokes were wide open and the solonide that activates them wasnt doing anything. I wedged a screw driver in the linkage to close the chokes and the engine started before the key was half turned.

Now my question if I put a test light between the two terminals on the solonide will that tell me if the problem is wiring or a bad solonide?

I know the smallengine guy intown wont take it for about 2 or 3 weeks

Thanks in advance

Frank

I believe that a solenoid is properly tested with a multi meter that tests ohms. I think that most auto choke/primer ones should be no less than 2 ohms.

What make/model/year is your rig?

Craig

[horsehunter]

it is a 50 hp 1985 4 cyl merc (american )

I was thinking the light would tell me if it is getting juice

Where would you conect multimeter to test solonide?

[cprince]

What I am thinking is that this solenoid actuates the choke... if you jumper the solenoid, does the choke engage?

Here are some solenoid troubleshooting tips that I found and edited a little.

Sometimes the movable pieces inside get stuck in the open position.

1 - Leave the power lead attached, it actuates the solenoid's coil and movable plunger.


2 - Press the button or turn your ignition key to start, and listen for a loud click noise at the solenoid.

3 - If you heard the click, then the next step is to place one multimeter lead on each external contact. Now actuate the solenoid again, with your meter in it's lowest Ohms position, you should now get continuity across the main external contacts. If you do then your solenoid is working properly. If you get an open instead get a new solenoid.


The testing light should work... but so should this!

Craig

[Flipper]

Here is a link to a good resource to trouble shoot Mercury ignition issues:

http://www.marinepartsman.com/ELECTRICA ... oards.html