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Before getting into the explanations and methods used for bottom bouncing I’d like to bring up a few points to drive home the value of using the technique and why you should include it in your arsenal of walleye tactics.
My first exposure to the term “Bottom Bouncing†was in an article in the Infisherman magazine back in the late eighties. The writer was explaining this hot new innovation that tournament fishermen were using in the Dakotas and other states in the Western US. What an eye catcher, – pun intended – it was one of those “why didn’t I think of that†deals. Dan Gapen Sr. a few years earlier had developed a weight system called the Bait Walker, a wire form much similar to a big spinner bait wire with a chunk of lead on the bottom arm. These proved to be very effective for lake trout and walleye – they got your attached bait to the bottom in a controlled fashion and were much more versatile than a 3 way rig. I bet you’ve all seen them in a tackle shop somewhere.
This new bottom bouncing variation though took the whole presentation method to a much higher level. By using a longer wire on the leg side of the wire form it was possible to mold the lead in the middle of the wire and the increased sensitivity to bottom structure the wire extension provided was phenomenal. This new innovative design was available in a variety of sizes that would suit a number of different fishing situations.
Observation:
I’m going to venture a personal observation before I move on to the technique side of bottom bouncing.
It is my belief that Walleye target bait that is above them in the strike zone. I think the shape of their head especially the eye sockets prevents visible acuity of approx. 80 degrees below them. This argument probably is brought home by the number of Walleye that eat a jig on the fall. With this contention I place a lot of confidence in attracting a bite from bottom oriented fish when the presentation is with a bouncer and it also sets the stage for understanding the why about doing things right.
How To:
The first step in rigging for bottom bouncing is to select a 6 – 6 ½’ rod that has a fast tip and good backbone from the center to the handle. A palm sized baitcast reel with a flipping switch makes a comfortable winch for an all day session of trolling. My personal preference for line is 20/8 Fireline and I’ll point out why in a little bit.
Last edited by McQ on Fri Oct 03, 2003 7:16 am, edited 3 times in total.
The simple procedure for determining what size bouncer to use is directly related to speed & depth. At regular trolling speeds the first 10’ can be fished with a 1 oz. bouncer and just adjust for more depth by increasing the weight by 1 oz./10 feet, you can cover the more productive zones with a selection of 1 – 3 oz. bouncers. Higher speeds can completely change the equation though, so apply a little guidance with this rule – keep your line angle from rod tip to water surface at 45 degrees. High speed (power) trolling is used out west quite often – sand and mud bottom reservoirs lend themselves very well to the high speed pursuit of walleye. It is not uncommon to watch these guys fish with 8 – 12 ozs. of weight and use speeds as high as 5 miles an hour.
In this general area of Ontario and Quebec, slow speed presentations are much more in vogue. The geological makeup of the land mass with all its shield rock extending into the water systems makes for a great obstacle course when it comes to trolling a straight line at speed, in fact it usually dictates an as slow as you can go approach. Trolling speeds that work for me around here would vary from ¾ - 2 MPH.
Now that we have the selection process settled, it’s time to rig up. If you are using Fireline, no let me rephrase this, regardless of the main line you choose use a Palomar knot to the bouncer. Of all the knots that are in use the Palomar provides the most security against knot breakage or slip.
Getting Started
Now comes the fun part, actually getting on the water and putting this method through its paces. I’ll begin with this bit of advice – those that have the right rig and know how to backtroll with it will have a huge advantage. Backtrolling is an efficient and very controlled type of boat operation, it allows you to precisely work a contour line with all the ins and outs of the structure covered. You can vary speed and steering direction to suit exactly what is appearing on your sonar screen. I don’t mean to say that the folks with a windshield or console boat can’t get results I’m just saying tiller control has many advantages. A small kicker motor or electric will allow you to fish in the same way a tiller rig can, although some hull designs may be a little more difficult to finesse. The ideal hull design is a deep V that tracks the water effectively.
Enough of the dry stuff, let’s get this show on the road. Step one – discovering the feel of a bouncer. Get out on the river or lake and find an edge that follows a 20’ or so contour line. Tie on a 2 oz bouncer, remember to use a Palomar knot. Don’t be concerned about using with a spinner rig or some other type of bait for the moment, this exercise is just designed to let you know what a bouncer does when it is properly contacting the bottom. Hit the flipping switch on your reel and with your thumb on the spool, slowly release line until the bouncer touches bottom. You’ll know by the thump you will feel in the rod. Now put your boat in gear, preferably in reverse (hope you have the right rig or setup). You’ll notice the line to the bouncer will take on an immediate angle. Let a bit more line out until you feel bottom again. Troll for a few hundred feet or so and occasionally raise and lower your rod tip. Do you feel the bouncer make contact with the bottom? No; then let out a bit more line until you do. When you’re sure you have contact just continue to work around the area a bit and get used to the signals that the bouncer is transmitting to the rod.. A good solid return thump indicates rock, brushed by the wire, a lesser thump is suggesting sand or gravel and a mushy feeling indicates mud. The area you are experimenting in may not hold all these bottom types so just concentrate on the current situation.
This is the single best piece of advice I can relate to this subject, you’re “bouncing†bottom not dragging it. The whole purpose of this exercise is to get a feel for the bouncer being in proximity of the bottom, not directly in contact with it. The ideal distance is about 6- 9 inches off bottom. Pull your line back and let it fall forward again until you get comfortable that you’re doing it right.
Did you hang the bouncer on bottom a few times, get stuck and have to yank it out of a crevice in the rocks, frustrating, EH ! The easiest way to get out of a snag is to reverse direction completely, take a reverse angle on the line and most often the bouncer will slip right out of the hang-up.
Step 2 – Let’s go fishing. Are you in an area that is likely to hold fish? If so just tie on one of those store bought rigs (worm harness) you picked up just for this occasion. Actually if you have the right type of bouncer there will be a snap swivel on the business end and all you have to do is open the snap and slip the looped end of the harness on. Bait up with a crawler (on a two hook harness just pinch the nose of the crawler on the hook closest to the spinner, let the worm stretch out and put the second hook through the worms body in the area of its collar) make sure the worm is lying straight. Or nose hook a minnow under the jaw and up through the head, let the second hook trail. Let out line until the bouncer makes contact with the bottom and follow the steps as previously explained. Hey, isn’t it great to be finally fishing.
There are a few elements that will tie this whole exercise into a successful method of fishing a bouncer right. Be precise in your efforts to stay in contact with the bottom, watch your boat speed and keep an eye on your sonar unit. It won’t take very long and it will all come together. Remember keep your line at a 45 degree angle MAX, any more than that and I’ll bet you’re dragging the bouncer.
OK folks, my entries are done so post away and don't forget the additional information that is developing in the "Beads & Blades" thread. There are many variables that will come into play here - precision bouncing, using bouncers in conjunction with boards, styles of bouncers (yes there are a few different types that fit specialized presentations), harnesses and all the options, blade styles, bouncing cranks and a couple of others that will be of interest to you.
While I rarely fish for walleye,I find you're comments top notch and am sure that many will be out filling their boats with their new and/or improved knowledge of bottom bouncing.Keep it up and thank you.
What a great piece McQ. I will give these a rip for sure especially the fast troll on the long mud patches that the Ottawa is so famous for. Thanks for the insight.
I wonder if I could use the same thing for muskie? I wonder what bottom bouncing a sucker minnow in a harness might stir up in some of those toothy critters?
Sorry I have muskie on my mind.... muskie oh muskie on my mind....
Steve, I'm a tiller guy from way back, yes I've had the console models and the super quick bass hulls but my favorite will always be a tiller. Here's a picture of my old ride - waiting for the new one to come in and I'll give you a peek at it when it arrives.
Great article (mcQ) I'm just getting started at bottum bouncing and will give the worm harness a shot. Can the bottom bouncer be use properly when drift fishing What about a floating jig head tipped with a minnow Any info. on this subject would be greatly appreciated...Thank's
we're using that too, here in st-laurent river(quebec) for waleye,you can also add a little count down rapala with a maximum of 28-36 inch of line to not make it to mutch hit the bottom ,it's working not so bad.
Excellent Article too bad you let the secret out. Well now that it’s out I have something to add. I’ve been using this technique for about 17 years now and swear by it and have caught more walleye using this technique than all others put together.
As we know most often walleyes hit ever so lightly and unless they are on a feeding frenzy, and will normally suck the worm (I use worms more often than not) in very slowly. Many people just starting to fish this technique have a tendency to set the hook at the first nibble (that was me) ripping the worm out of the walleye’s mouth before it has a chance to get to the hooks. When you are trolling or drifting with your bottom bouncer and worm harness point the rod in the direction of travel. As soon as you start to feel anything that seems like a nibble (in time you’ll get to know the feeling) ease the rod tip towards the fish keeping enough tension as not to lose him. Once you’ve reached the back or front of the boat (depending on how you’re trolling or drifting) set the hook. I guarantee if you do this you will greatly increase your catch. Remember it will take a bit to get used to the bite “nibbleâ€. And if the fish hammers your harness disregard the last.
Seaweed, it does work for muskie and pike as well. All the muskie I’ve ever caught was on a bottom bouncer and worm harness while I was fishing for Walleye of course. That’s why I use 20-30lbs line when making my harnesses
If it's nice enough to golf...... You should be fishing!
I wonder if I could use the same thing for muskie? I wonder what bottom bouncing a sucker minnow in a harness might stir up in some of those toothy critters?
Sorry I have muskie on my mind.... muskie oh muskie on my mind.... 
What about a floating jig head tipped with a minnow 
