Any electrical whizzes?

[M.T. Livewell]

Do you have a NAPA/ Autopro in your area?

I bet they could find some kind of connector for 9 wires. Likely a heck of a lot cheaper than getting the connectors through a marina.

Good luck.

M.T. Livewell

[Cancatchbass]

Hey, MT:

I did check with Tichborne Auto Supply (sort of a local equivalent of AutoPro) and they have nothing more than a seven port connector.

I might look at going with a pair of 5 outlet connectors and splitting the wires between them.

CCB

[Steve G]

Nothing wrong with connecting them directly, just watch for combined wiring on either side of connectors and match the original.

You have pics so you are probably good to go.

[Cancatchbass]

I think I'll try a shortcut first and see if it works.

Assuming the other wires in the connector are undamaged, I'll cut the black (presumably ground) wires either side ogf the connector. The I'll replace the damaged wire and connect it directly to the black, bypassing the connector.

Wish me luck.

CCB

[Jale]

CCb

you could try an auto wrecking yard. those connectors look quite similar to car stereo connectors.

just a thought

Joe

[ady]

I love this type of post - we all get these problems from time to time and FH comes to the rescue.

The problem you have had is a dirty or damp connection. When the male and female metal contacts get damp and small amount of corrosion or crystallisation occurs. This creates a higher resistence at the contact which in turn starts to drop voltage across itself, this then makes things worse. As more voltage drops on the contact it heats up and viola you have a fire or blown breakers. I have no doubt your main breaker, having functioned correctly, saved you from a fire. I would now be suspicious of the sub-breakers that did not trip; maybe they are too high an ampage???

So for all you guys with complex wiring like this, add the task of cleaning your connecters to the winter prep... WD40 type stuff works a treat.

[Bass Bandit]

Hey CCB

I probably check at some of the local marinas. They may have the connectors.

But if all else fails, the connector kinda looks like some of the connectors used in car stereos maybe check at CT.

Just a thought

[Cancatchbass]

Looks like I've opened a real can of worms! (See how I'm keeping it fishing related? )

The more I follow the black, damaged wire, the messier this gets. I've now traced damaged wire right up through another mult-connector, to behind the dash, melted sections connecting right to my control module for the in-dash flasher.

Now I find I can't remove the module since it backs up to the steering arm. No room to work on it...

In order to get at it, in other words, I would need to pull the steering wheel, remove the steering arm...

I'd just as soon have the flasher disabled- I have another unit at the console, but the bunch (8?) of wires that feed to or through the flasher must serve other purposes, too.

And I haven't even started following the trail back towards the stern.

This may turn into a long-term project!

CCB

[ady]

Sorry to hear the progression of the problem. It sounds like you need a wiring diagram for your boat, if it is a standard fit you could probably contact the supplier/manufacturer. This is a known problem with 12v battery systems, just too much current available in that battery when a problem arises. As for disabling the flasher, I doubt the wiring will affect any other systems. 8 wires!! hmmm +ve, -ve, maybe 2 more for dash lighting and a few for the transducer?? can't help here. Maybe you could google the make/model of the flasher for help??

[M.T. Livewell]

If you want my money, as I was looking under my switch panel last night, I bet it is the the light switch. Those wires touch everything else in the system.

From 50 000 feet, I am guessing it is the nav lights switch.
(let me know if I am close).

Good luck.

M.T. Livewell

(p.s. I hate trouble shooting electrical)

[Cancatchbass]

After removing a total of 20 feet of melted wire and replacing it by bypassing the connector, and running a new wire up inside the dash, it looks like everything is operating fine.

The melted wire that appeared to connect to the back of the flasher control module was actually just melted to it and went further to a connector block behind the guages that I never knew was there.

I've run everything in the boat at the same time and no evidence of the replacement wire heating up. I'll keep an eye on things, though, since I'm not sure what caused the original problem. There is no corrosion anywhere that I can find. Everything, with the exception of the melted wire looks nice and shiny.

Looks like, with any luck, I'll be on the water this weekend, after all!

Thanks for all the help and suggestions.

CCB

[wishin I was Fishin]

CCB, where exactly will you get your boat on the water this wknd?...It might be worth the drive from Pembroke for a little boat time!!

[barblessbob]

try princess auto
if you cannot find any multi pin connectors get yourself a bagfull
of male and female stakons and a crimper..
make sure you tag all your wires before you start
you can buy number tags at home depot cheap

that black wire that has melted what does it feed?
that could be the source of the heat ( over current)
melting your wires.

hope that helps

nofish

[Cancatchbass]

Everything is working fine now, nofish.

wishin- the St. Lawrence is wide open and water levels are fairly high. Nothing open in my area except perch, though.

CCB

[Bass Bandit]

Thank god you got that mess straightened up sounds like it was a lot of fun. I'm glad I didn't have to do that. "yet"